CMX Heat Exchangers

Fits all CMX models!
(Need a custom heat exchanger? Contact us for a customized solutions.)

NOTE: To make this system work at its best, you need a coolant bottle with a 2.0 pressure system available here: snowbike coolant bottle

Having issues with engine temp control on your prized snowbike build? Here is your solution to fix the biggest factor in maintaining engine temps on the trail, in deep woods, or steepest hill climbs from the coldest days of winter to the warmest days of spring! And best of all- engines produce the most HP at optimal engine temperature, and us snowbikers know every little bit of power counts!

Please read this informative page: Heat Exchangers: Why use them and how to setup and install.

📝Available Sizes: 20″  / larger available upon request
Throughout our testing, we found the 20″ model to provide enough cooling for any engine/bike. Because of the open/ web frame design of the CMX skid and the placement of the heat exchanger within that open frame it allows for cooling on both the bottom and top! Unlike the Timbersled models which is fitted underneath the tunnel panel and gets cooled with direct snow only from the bottom (along with some heatsinking to the panel) and requires a much larger heat exchanger.
If the 20″ size does not provide enough cooling for you- let us know and we will send you an exchange longer heat exchanger as we continue with our data collection and improvement of this product!

• Each cooler will come with 2 front retention rods 3/16″ aluminum (1 is a spare in case you bend it too far during install- see install video)
• Comes with 1 rear 304 stainless threaded retention rod and 2 lock nuts.
• If additional hardware is needed, contact us.
• Heat exchanger sits inside of frame webs and does not interfere with any gas cans or toolboxes mounted onto the tunnel/skid
• If you have a toolbox or gas can it is recommended to place it above the heat exchanger to deflect snow back onto the top of heat exchanger!

→Read this section discussing Heat exchangers sizes, hyfax, and lubrication: Overheating with heat exchangers

Also View: Customer setups and their cooling results

Installation: heat exchanger install literally takes only a few minutes! watch the video below and see for yourself!

• Installation video:  (video final touch-ups in progress, can be emailed upon request)
• Does not require any drilling or cutting of your skid!
• Can be removed anytime just as fast as it was to install! Replacement or upgrading to a larger size is just as easy!

Plumbing: Please see plumbing/ hose routing diagram in the picture gallery!

• ⚠️ The CMX web frame has sharp corners! Any corners in contact with the hose must be protected with a piece of split hose wrapped around the main line like this: Split hose protector
• Connections to heat exchanger are as simple as it gets. Does not require any special hoses or hose elbows- just straight hose from the reel.
• Use standard 5/8″ auto parts store heater hose for plumbing within the skid, and then connect to our customized heat exchanger conversion hoses 
  • Our custom silicone hoses can touch engine & cylinder head! But cannot touch any exhaust components!
  • Heater hose is available at just about any auto parts store and is sold by the foot
  • You can also use auto parts store hoses/elbows and hardware store hose fittings to get the plumbing done if our custom hoses dont fit your setup.
• Use only worm gear or screw style clamps. Do not use spring clamps – they will not hold up to the pressure. Make sure clamp is installed below the hose bead and not on the bead itself.
• MAKE SURE to secure hoses with plenty of zip ties so they do not bounce and contact the track!!
• MAKE SURE you do not have any hoses that are hanging low enough to get rubbed by the bouncing track! Hoses must be at least 1/4″ above the bottom of the frame rails.
• After install follow the Filling and bleeding the system instructions found here: Heat Exchangers: Filling and bleeding system

View: Customer setups and their cooling results

Riding:

• Follow first ride instructions after filling and bleeding system: Heat Exchangers: Filling and bleeding system
• Monitor temps on first ride to ensure system is working properly

⚠️❄️A note about extreme cold weather conditions: In some areas (geographically) on very cold days when the outside temperature is around -20 and colder, and the snow conditions and humidity are of such, you may (depends on how you ride and for how long) experience the issue of an ice shell forming around the heat exchanger. Ice shell is not in direct contact with the heat exchanger- its a few inches away and is frozen onto the web frame. Towards the end of a long days riding the Ice shell can eventually (but very rarely) impede with cooling as it can encase almost the entire the heat exchanger. This happens because the extreme cold outside temperatures are great enough to diffuse all the heat coming off the heat exchanger and ice begins to form.

A statement from one of our testers: “The crossmembers and frame definitely iced up a bunch and probably blocked some of the snow from making it to the cooler, at least the sides and top. Granted it was super cold today! The radiators would do the same thing in the same conditions but they would become blocked off and not cool at all!”

To prevent this ice shell issue from happening during the coldest days of the season there are a few very very easy solutions:

1. If you ride in an area that will have -20 and colder temps: Use a piece of thick tarp like material (or engine blanket material) and cover the top of the web frame over above the heat exchanger, zip tie it in place. This will trap in the heat and keep the ice shell from forming. Leave it on for the entire season because it will help with deflecting snow back onto the heat exchanger when snow conditions are marginal or iced over.  (We are working on making this available for purchase soon)
2. If you ride in an area that might get temps to around -10: you may (at the end of a long day) have icing over on the frame webs, but nothing significant to impede cooling. If there is any ice that begins forming, it can be knocked off when you stop for a midday break, or leave the bike running for 5-10 minutes during your break and it will put enough heat into the frame to melt it all off.

→ NOTE: same as it is on a snowmobile- if the trail is frozen and your track is not throwing snow on the heat exchanger, your engine will begin to overheat and you will also be damaging your track and hyfax as its not getting lubricated. You must be either hitting the ditch/ banks with soft powder or have an ice scratcher to provide lubrication for your track and cooling the engine.

Tip: install ice scratchers on both sides, but use only one at a time and it provides enough snow onto the track for cooling. Riders forget to put up the ice scratchers when off the trail, and they break, but at least that way you will have a spare on the other side.

Contact us with any questions through the contact us form here: Contact Us
Need a modified unit for your specific application? Contact us!